Now's the time we refocus on potatoes for menus and for our spring garden planning. Our cellar is full of roots and potatoes, especially our favorite Ozette variety. We have cultivated a great resource for certified organic seed (below) to share with you and we'll post a few of our favorite recipes over the coming winter months.
My family has a long association with these little gems beginning with the enlightenment by the Makah in the mid 1990's to non-native Northwest scientists, scholars, farmers and chefs. Nominated to the Slow Food Ark of Taste shortly thereafter, this potato direct from Peru to the Pacific Northwest Wonderland, is unique where all other potato cultivars came to the Western Hemisphere via the Old World after having undergone several iterative manipulations by the natural progression of farming selectivity.
"...in Washington state, the Makah Ozette potato has become a prized culinary specimen of flavor and versatility. Its namesake is the Makah Tribe, historically based in the Seattle (NW Olympic Mountain coastal) region and longtime consumers of this particular potato. The Makah Ozette potato’s origins, according to Chef Fernando Divina, is disputed by the scientific community, and he explained that (Charles Brown, former USDA geneticist) and others, among them) Nancy Turner of the University of British Columbia and other scientists traced the origin from Peru by Spaniards and hence propagated by the associated tribes — Makah, Haida, Bella Coola (perhaps) and Tlingit.
Fernando was part of a team that included Slow Food Seattle years ago who, inspired by the global Ark of Taste program, set out to raise awareness of the potato and improve its ability to be cultivated."
Excerpt from "Unpacking Indigenous seed politics: respect over royalties", Slow Food
USA article by Robin Mosely, June 5, 2024
On a memorable journey to the Makah Nation in the 90's one gorgeous, though misty, summer weekend, my family visited the site of the People and potatoes to better understand the connection these potatoes have with the adopted propagators and their storied relationship, now approaching 2 1/2 half centuries. As with all introduced foods, adaptation to existing cooking styles prevailed. As with most regional roots, preparation is simple - boiling in bentwood boxes or roasting in ash covered with fern or ironwood with other foods like fish and game and with sea vegetables and in sea water to provide flavorings and nutrients - among the means to table. Nowadays, there in Northwestern Washington state and afield, these potatoes are among the most revered for cooks and as a garden crop, adaptable to most environments.
Here is a favorite recipe we like to prepare and serve regularly.
Makah Ozette Potato and Sweet Onion Gratin
Make this dish to serve with roasted mushrooms, meats or grilled fish and chicken. We make this after the fall potato harvest and throughout the winter with cellared potatoes we've put by.
Fernando and Marlene Divina, divinAmerica
Serves 8 to 10
4 ounces unsalted butter, melted - divided
2 - 3 cloves garlic, finely minced (about 1 1/2 teaspoons)
4 lbs Makah Ozette potatoes, sliced ¼ inch thick
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, substitute a generous ¼ teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 lb sweet white onions, halved, and sliced lengthwise into ½ inch slices
2 cups vegetable or mushroom broth
½ cup coarse bread crumbs (coarsely crumbled crackers)
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
Preheat oven to 375 degrees
Using a scant tablespoon butter, apply a thin coat of the butter with a basting brush or paper towel over the inside of a 9x9 baking dish or 10 inch cast iron skillet.
Distribute the minced garlic over the bottom of the buttered pan. Sprinkle the pan with the thyme, salt, and pepper.
Lay half the onions in the bottom of the pan followed by the potatoes and top with the balance of the onions.
Add the broth. The liquid will diffuse the flavor of the garlic, herbs and seasoning.
Toss the bread crumbs with ½ tablespoon of butter. Then sprinkle the bread crumbs over the onion/ potato assembly. Sprinkle with the paprika. Drizzle the remaining butter over the whole and place in the oven until golden brown and cooked through when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 35 – 45 minutes. Tent with foil if the top is browning before the vegetables are cooked . The potatoes should be golden and the onions beginning to caramelize but visibly moist . Potatoes freshly harvested have more water than those over-wintered so expect to make modest adjustments accordingly . You may need a little additional broth or butter to compensate for lower water content.
Allow the gratin to relax and absorb cooking liquids by setting in a warm place, loosely covered for up to 20 minutes prior to serving.
Sources:
Makah Ozette Potato Seed, certified organic
Slow Food USA article January 2024
Makah wood working and cooking methods:
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