Autumn's seasonal Northwest song: apple and wild huckleberry cobbler
From Hood River, Oregon to Mount Baker, Washington, one can travel the backroads along the eastern Cascadian steppe and marvel at the shear volume, acre upon acre, of apples. Varieties these days may be grown for their juice in ciders while some are particularly good for eating out of hand. We like tart apples for baking. From springtime blossom to fall harvest, apples are in evidence literally everywhere. The aroma of apple blossoms to the cider-like scent of ripe fallen fruit, Northwesterners are quite literally beckoned to the enticement of crisp slices of apples and their promise of caramelly rich desserts.
Joyfully too, lining those apple-filled backroads of Oregon and Washington are trails that lead through forests of pine and other woodlands filled with tasty wildlings like spruce tips for jam, mushrooms, greenlings and in late summer through fall, an abundance of berries, timed right when apples are coming on for harvest. Huckleberries with their bright and deeply intense flavors are among our favorite pairings in baked desserts like cobblers and pies.
Every year we attend a celebration in Cowiche, Washington located in the heart of apple country. Surrounded by orchards as far as the eye can see is a gathering of festival goers reveling in the apple harvest. And without fail, we make this comforting apple and huckleberry cobbler at harvest time.
Apple and Huckleberry Cobbler
This special cobbler is an adaptation of a 19th century recipe where the cobbler, once assembled, was doused with the fruit juice creating an unctuous glaze atop the baked cobbler crust. As the juice-soaked topping was infused with the juice, it was usually dusted with confectioners sugar to improve the presentation and served with a spoon of Chantilly cream or ice cream. This use of fruit juice allowed one to use much less sugar to balance the tartness of the apples. We've adjusted the recipe to include the juice but sprinkle the topping with coarse sugar for a clean, fresh baked finish.
Ingredients
For the fruit
1/3 cup sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
4 cups sliced peeled tart apples about 4 large apples
1/2 cup wild huckleberries
1/3 cup fresh squeezed orange juice
For the topping
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons cold butter
1 tablespoon coarse Turbinado sugar crystals
½ cup + 2 tablespoons milk
Preheat oven to 375°
To prepare the fruit
In a large bowl, combine the sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon and nutmeg. Add apples, huckleberries and orange juice; toss to coat. Transfer to an 11-in. x 7-in. baking dish.
To prepare the topping
Combine the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Cut in butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Stir milk into the crumb and mix just until the liquid is incorporated and the dough is moistened.
To finish and bake
Assemble large spoonfuls of topping and distribute the dough evenly onto the apple mixture. Leave open space to allow the steam to escape and the fruit to show through. Sprinkle the top with the sugar crystals. Place in the oven and bake for 30-35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into topping comes out clean.
Serve warm with Chantilly cream or ice cream.
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